Caledonian Forest

Scotland's ancient Caledonian pinewood forests once spread across thousands of kilometers of the Highlands. They now remain at just 84 sites and cover 180 km2 in the north and west. However, the forests aren't just Scots pine rich. Juniper, birch, willow, rowan and aspen trees are all native pinewood forest species. The forests are ideal habitat for a vast number of plant and animal species, some of which are endemic to Scotland and rely upon the Caledonian forests for their survival.
The forests are now well protected as their conservation status was established at the Rio Biodiversity World Summit in 1992. "The preservation project has run for 10 years and for most of the important Caledonian pinewood sites is ongoing without an end date," says David Jardine, the Forestry Commission's Inverness based Forest District Manager. The UK's only endemic species of bird, the Scottish crossbill is one of the major beneficiaries of the project. You'll find crossbills in and around the forests of Glen Affric, Abernethy, Cambus O'May and the Tay Forest. It's a very vocal bird. "You can see crossbills, but you are more likely to hear their contact calls rather than song," says Cambus O'May Forest ranger Louise Simpson.
The Scottish crossbill is a member of the finch family, but looks almost like a parrot. One of its closest relatives is the Parrot crossbill. This stocky bird tends to change woods from year to year and it avoids young trees that have no pinecones, as it likes to feast on pine seeds all year long. In May the fledglings will be just as noisy as their parents, "Young Scottish crossbill families will be on the wing in May giving their characteristic "chittoo-chitoo" begging calls to their parents," explains David Jardine.
Cambus O'May in the Grampians has views over Royal Deeside as far as Lochnagar on a clear day and is a good spot to see them. "They need a mixture of Scots pine and other conifers to extend the cone season. So you could say that the Forestry Commission is supporting lots of birds by planting mixed forests," adds Simpson. "We would recommend that visitors follow our waymarked walks in Cambus - then they at least have a chance to see the chewed and torn cones on the path surface. These cones will either have been eaten by crossbills or red squirrels."
As the name suggests Scottish Native Woods (SNW) is a charity working to preserve and restore Scotland's native woods. SNW assists land-holders to manage their wodlands throughout the north of Scotland. We have also been working recently with the Cairngorms National Park to map the distribution of aspen and develop a stategy for its management in the Park. "Aspen is found throughout the UK, but is particularly widespread in the Highlands. Strathspey is its stronghold," explains SNW's John Parrott. "It's usually associated with birchwoods in Speyside, but it also occurs with Scots pine. A number of rare invertebrates, mosses, lichens and fungi rely upon it." It is also a favoured foodplant of European beaver which is about to be reintroduced into Scotland. Aspen is very attractive, especially in autumn when the leaves turn a brilliant range of yellows and reds.
"Cairngorm is hoping to expand the distribution of aspen in the Cairngorms, and especially to fill gaps between stands," adds John Parrot. According to their most recent report, SNW have big hopes for Scotland's aspen trees. "Properly promoted, aspen could achieve iconic status in the Highlands comparable with that of Caledonian Pine. It could serve as a flagship species for many of its dependents, especially with the imminent reintroduction of European beaver to the Highlands."
To help preserve the pinewoods, the Forestry Commission prefers to let nature take its course at some locations, "Where young native trees are being planted such as in Glen Affric, Glen Garry, Black Wood of Rannoch and Glenmore - in many sites the principal method is to let the old "granny" (200 year old) trees regenerate through natural seed fall. This can lead to the development of a more varied woodland," says David Jardine.
One of the most difficult species to spot in the forest is the Scottish wildcat. It is confined to the Central and Northern Highlands and has been protected since 1981. It's still seen as a pest by many landowners, farmers and gamekeepers and is often slaughtered on sight even though it helps control rodent and rabbit populations. Unlike the domestic cat, the wildcat is a seasonal breeder. Females usually give birth to anything up to 6 kittens in May and young wildcats stay with their mothers for 5 months before leaving to fend for themselves. There are thought to be only a few hundred left in Scotland.
Wildcats prefer upland forest, moorland, scrub and hill ground with plenty of rocky cairns for lying low during the day and raising kittens during the summer months. They are most active at dawn and dusk. During the day they lie up to digest the morning's kill. "The best areas to see wildcats are open rocky hills in places such as the Angus glens. They are virtually impossible to spot in the forests, even though they will be present," says wildlife photographer Keith Ringland, who is thought to be the first photographer to capture a wildcat close up on film in March 1999.
The Capercaillie is the largest and most endangered bird in the UK. Hunted to extinction in 1785 it was reintroduced to Scotland in the 1800's. This turkey-sized grouse inhabits the forests of Abernethy, Glenmore, Glen Affric and Tay Forest. A decrease in available brood habitat together with an increase in predators such as foxes and crows and high deer fencing, which is hazardous for low flying birds like the Capercaillie, have all conspired against this extremely shy bird. The RSPB estimate that there are only around 1000 left and a second extinction is possible within a decade. In April the birds begin the spectacular male mating displays known as "lekking".
Capercaillie lek during April and May. Watchers visiting the RSPB site in Abernethy are taken to the hide at 5:30am to see the males display and fight in often fierce battles in a bid to impress the smaller females who observe from the trees above. "It is a real wildlife spectacle and attracts lots of birdwatchers," says Kenny Kortland, RSPB Capercaillie Project Officer who helped set up the "Capercaillie Watch" at the Abernethy Forest Reserve in Strathspey.
The RSPB are at pains to advise visitors to the forest to be careful. Under the Wildlife and Countryside Act it is illegal to disturb a nesting hen or a Capercaillie lek, (the area of several hectares used for display and mating). There are signs asking visitors to avoid wandering around the forest during the lekking season. "Some mornings caper cocks will display very close to the Centre and the views are tremendous. Such experiences are not guaranteed but the chances of seeing some caper action are good," says RSPB Abernethy Site Manager Colin Mclean. "However, we must urge people to behave responsibly or we will lose this species."
Abernethy and Loch Garten also provide excellent chances of seeing osprey, red squirrel, woodpecker and the Scottish crossbill. During May crested tits will also be busy rearing their young in rotten pine stumps. "May is a good time to see a range of the pinewood plants," adds David Jardine. "Blaeberries are coming into flower and the twinflower start to grow. It flowers in June. Look out for pinewood butterflies like the pearl-bordered fritillary."
Links
Forestry Commission
Scottish Native Woods
RSPB Abernethy
Capercaillie conservation
Cairngorms National Park
Caledonian partnership